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LJ 308 Build

Started by _onefifty_ , Nov 01 2007 12:42 PM

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10 replies to this topic

#1 _onefifty_

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 12:42 PM

Hi all,

Been reading and posting for a bit now, thought it was time to put up my ride, its a 73 4 door LJ.

I found it from up north in NZ, had been looking for a while and this one was mint so snapped it up.

Pickup
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Home

Rust - The biggest bit of rust is on the left rear body pillar
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Stripped

Plan is to fit a nice street VN headed 308 with a small dose of nitrous with a supra W55-59 behind.

Am currently sorting out bellhousing/clutch etc from dellow so should get that soon. I have read there workmanship is good? I am going to get everyting from engine to box from them. Good idea?

Then plan is to test fit engine/box and sort steering coloum, will i need to fit exaust manifolds/headers while i sort steering coloum? As i only have a std 308 to test fit with at the moment.

I am stuck with the diff though and need some advice, i would like all wheel discs, hoppers on the front probably, what are my diff options for the back?

This is my first car so im am learning fast

Thanks for reading and the advice.

Steve

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#2 _JBird_

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 12:58 PM

Nissan R31 Skyline ... Generally have 3.7 or 3.9 ratio, change stud pattern to whatever you want, shorten, adapt hand brake cables to torana. They come with disc brake rear end, 28 spline axles. Attractive because they are usually cheaper than the VN-VL equivalent.

They are usually single spinner but you can swap and LSD from a Borgwarner diff VN-VL series (c/wheel and pinion included), or mini spool/full spool or if you have the $$$ Kaaz 1.5/2 way LSD. I got my skyline diff for $150 complete.

You will need a toyota yoke and R31 skyline t/shaft to custom up a tailshaft to suit the LJ.

Hoppers would be ideal. Will need to sort out fresh wheels for it though as it changes the offset a great deal. Private Message (PM) Dattoman as I think he has a kit same as hoppers for a little bit less.

As your running a VN head, correct me if I'm wrong, it will be a bit harder to source extractors that will clear, if your good at making your own it would be ideal. You will need to move the steering column across, cut the steering shaft and the rack end and piece back together with a LH-LX Steering knuckle, do the same for the column end.

Don't bother with W55..try source a W58 or R154 if you want it to last behind the 308.

Dellow is pretty much the only place that has conversion kits.

Other than that nice project :spoton:

Edited by JBird, 01 November 2007 - 01:00 PM.

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#3 _onefifty_

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 01:31 PM

Hi JBird thanks for the info,

I thought W55, W57, W58, W59 were all alloy oval supra box's, just different internal ratios?

If i go VL-VN LSD to start with, does it just need to be shortened? Or do mounts need to be moved aswell?

Am going to run new simmons FR17s, they can be made with offsets and studpatterns to order i think.

Thanks for the help

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#4 Heath

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 02:13 PM

In NZ it's probably ridiculously easy to find R31 diffs, but a better Borg Warner Option is the V8 VN. 31 spline, 3.45:1 LSD although probably a bit harder to find for minimal $ in NZ (I can't remember how many V8 90s Commodores there are on the other side of the ditch).

Dunno how much length you would need taken out of a VN diff, but I assume a few inches. Moreso if you want dish. R31 might be the right length but even that might be pushing it.

Yes you can get whatever offset and pattern for Simmons FR's so don't worry about that so much.

You WILL want your RHS Extractors installed on the motor to work out spacing for the steering column (you know two put two steering knuckles in it yes?), and they will need to be real tight block huggers unless you wanna move the column across.

I'm not sure if you can get VN headed extractors for an LC/LJ, you might need to get some made...

Edited by Heath, 01 November 2007 - 02:14 PM.

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#5 RIM-010

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 02:22 PM

I'm pretty sure Rory didn't have to shorten his Skyline diff for the L34 Replica... Woops, we're talking LJ here

Then yeah, you'll have to shorten it either way (Commo or Skyline).

Tim

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#6 _JBird_

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 03:07 PM

Sorry your right. I was thinking you were talking about the "weak" steel case celica boxes.

You will find that those Commo/Skyline diffs need to be shortened and mounts put on. Skyline diffs are a dime a dozen, commo diffs are in demand and second hand ones are $700+. Just make sure you don't get confused between the Pintara diffs (25 spline) and the Skyline ones. LSD's can be bought on ebay for around $200, just stick the 3.7/3.89 on it.

If you don't shorten the R31 diff you will need 14x6 +50 wheels (no dish at all).

I've never heard of a VN 31 Spline? I always thought the VN v8 ran the same diff as the VL Turbo, 28 spline 3.45 LSD.

Castle Auto Electrics do an "off the shelf" extractor I believe. LJ355 has them, though I've heard they could be bigger and could fit better...

Edited by JBird, 01 November 2007 - 03:08 PM.

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#7 Heath

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 03:27 PM

Ooops my bad V8 VN is 28 spline, VL (6 N/A) is 25 spline.

I was accidentally comparing 31 spline to 28 spline instead of 28 to 25. Good spot JBird.

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#8 _shunty_

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 05:45 PM

Easiest dif to source in NZ is generaly VN commie - R31 diffs here are like VL commie diffs in aussie, bloody hard to find and expensive when you do

For getting it cut down, I've heard good things about Tony Rattrie at Steelie Gears in Auckland, 09-276-6297. He'll be doing mine when the time comes

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#9 _onefifty_

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 12:08 PM

So i went to see some diff peole today, you might be interested in this shunty.

Went to Diffs R Us and rough quote was $1300 shortened and mounted etc, but i have to supply my own diff.

And the place you suggested, Steelie Gears, I assume it was tony i talked to, anyway was $1600 which includes a VN LSD supplied from him, I think ill go with Steelie Gears.

Both dudes were pretty onto it and recommeded i get my wheels first to find out the overall length i need. Only thing is i want to get Simmons and i need specific measurements of where my hubs, calipers etc are going to be :blink:

I can not go to short because the the inside edge of the caliper must clear the shock, but how short can i go. So does anyone have a measurement from the hub face to the inside edge of the caliper please? i have drawn a pic if it helps.

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Then i should be allow for some room, calc the hubface to hubface measurement for diff builder and get the shortest diff possible? I think. Will this work?

Thanks
Steve

Edited by onefifty, 02 November 2007 - 12:09 PM.

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#10 _JBird_

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 05:25 PM

What diameter wheel you want to get.
Then work out what width you want.
Then work out what offset to choose.

Sprintmasters are 13x6 and +19 if that is any guide.

Mini-tubs are a must if you want to go larger than 17x7.
Otherwise 15x8 can JUST fit under the guard but you can't lower it too much.

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#11 _onefifty_

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 07:56 AM

I want to get Simmons FR17's, so 7" is the widest i can go, with a 215/40R17. Would that be ok?

I want to get the most dish possible (i know it wont be that much), that is why i wanted to get the diff as short as possible first.

What do you think?