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Everything seems… too tight?


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#1 Liam S

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Posted 06 October 2025 - 05:22 PM

Hi all,

I started tightening up some bits and pieces on K-Frame, upper and lower Ball joints (70ft-lbs each as per this forum advice) and tightened the front hub til firm and castle nut was able to put cotters through.

The stub axle is quite firm to turn, and the hub too is quite firm, is this purely because I have no real leverage i.e. no wheel etc to actually put torque onto the bearing surfaces? To be clear I can move both the hub and stub axle with effort.

Am I worrying over nothing?
Liam


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#2 neglectedtorana

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Posted 06 October 2025 - 06:05 PM

I don't know but I do know you are meant to grease new ball joints when installed.

I think its best done while the wheels/weight of the car are not on the stub axles



#3 Dr Terry

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Posted 06 October 2025 - 06:38 PM

Front bearings shouldn't be tight !!.

 

Dr Terry



#4 N/A-PWR

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Posted 06 October 2025 - 07:25 PM

Castle Nut for bearings in hub,

 should be done up till firm,

 & then backed off to the next castle nut groove (60 degrees) to put pin in.

This way the bearing is not binding & free wheeling.

 

p.s. as you may or may not know, heat expands metal one thousands per inch in diameter,

 so this gives room for expansion too.

:3gears:

Hi all,

tightened the front hub til firm and castle nut was able to put cotters through.


Edited by N/A-PWR, 06 October 2025 - 07:30 PM.


#5 claysummers

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Posted 06 October 2025 - 08:12 PM

You’re worrying about nothing……


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#6 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 16 October 2025 - 12:44 PM

I recently had same trouble when replacing the front wheel bearings & castle nuts on my LJ, it seems the new castle nuts being sold by most of the stores are actually made for trailer hubs where depending on the different axle manufacturer determines which nuts they use, But none of those are made for disc brake applications on cars. As in they’re too thick and won’t allow the split pins to line up with stub axle holes, Way too thick & tight so brake hubs won’t turn. I returned my new nuts and was told “I’ve fitted plenty of these same nuts to HQ etc. without problem”. After chasing around different shops and making numerous phone calls to R/S and the likes I discovered there’s 2 or 3 different width castle nuts for Holden hubs, Majority are made for trailers as manufacturers are still using new Holden threaded axles. Then I pulled everything out of my garage to finally find the original Castle Nuts and found they fit perfectly and allow the hub to turn with split pins fitted.


Edited by WhaleOilBeefHooked, 16 October 2025 - 12:45 PM.


#7 Shiney005

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Posted 17 October 2025 - 09:42 AM

^^^ Another lesson learned.



#8 Liam S

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Posted 17 October 2025 - 02:34 PM

I recently had same trouble when replacing the front wheel bearings & castle nuts on my LJ, it seems the new castle nuts being sold by most of the stores are actually made for trailer hubs where depending on the different axle manufacturer determines which nuts they use, But none of those are made for disc brake applications on cars. As in they’re too thick and won’t allow the split pins to line up with stub axle holes, Way too thick & tight so brake hubs won’t turn. I returned my new nuts and was told “I’ve fitted plenty of these same nuts to HQ etc. without problem”. After chasing around different shops and making numerous phone calls to R/S and the likes I discovered there’s 2 or 3 different width castle nuts for Holden hubs, Majority are made for trailers as manufacturers are still using new Holden threaded axles. Then I pulled everything out of my garage to finally find the original Castle Nuts and found they fit perfectly and allow the hub to turn with split pins fitted.

 

Yes I also found this, the replacement Castle Nuts from Restocountry were indeed thicker than my original Castle Nuts and that's what I had to use, the over tightening was 100% my fault, I incorrectly assumed that firm + whatever required to fit split pin is correct rather than firm - whatever fit split pin with original nuts.



#9 dron

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Posted 17 October 2025 - 04:17 PM

Tight to seat the bearings, Looosen and back up to 0 tenshion 0 lash, Then BACK to 1st lock point would be about right. Bearings should have a tiny bit of movement not be preloaded. Even more important on disk brakes as freeplay allong with caliper seal deflection is all that releases the breakes.  Or at least that is what tafe were teaching when I did my time back in the dark ages






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