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173 Timing Marks


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#1 Flaming Skull 57

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Posted 17 November 2025 - 12:49 PM

Hi All

 

I have a 1971 LC Torana with a 173 engine. I have researched all the sites and am still not sure of the make up of the timing marks on the timing cover.

What I have found is the Long mark on a 173 is TDC, which is different from other size engines. Therefore, if I set the timing at 5 degree Before Top Dead Center then that would be before the long line. Before the long line there is only two notches. Therefore 2 and 4 degrees. Do I set the timing just before the timing block starts?

 

The other question is if the "R" on the markings is "Retard" why do you require 4 notches - 2,4,6,8 degrees retard when all timing is BTDC.

 

Cheers

John



#2 Bruiser

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Posted 17 November 2025 - 06:19 PM

If it’s an early red cover, that is 5 degrees advanced on the longest mark
I think those are the ones with the R on them
Maybe someone else can confirm that

This might help

https://www.gmh-tora...6-timing-marks/

Could always old school it and loosen the dizzy bolt just enough, take it for a spin and
tap it around with a pair of pliers until it runs best just to be sure

#3 claysummers

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Posted 17 November 2025 - 06:42 PM

The (notch on the) balancer pulley is another variable to bear in mind.



#4 S pack

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Posted 18 November 2025 - 07:09 AM

Hi All

 

I have a 1971 LC Torana with a 173 engine. I have researched all the sites and am still not sure of the make up of the timing marks on the timing cover.

What I have found is the Long mark on a 173 is TDC, which is different from other size engines. Therefore, if I set the timing at 5 degree Before Top Dead Center then that would be before the long line. Before the long line there is only two notches. Therefore 2 and 4 degrees. Do I set the timing just before the timing block starts?

 

The other question is if the "R" on the markings is "Retard" why do you require 4 notches - 2,4,6,8 degrees retard when all timing is BTDC.

 

Cheers

John

Sounds like you have the 1st type red motor timing cover stamped R. The longest mark is 5 deg advanced, 5 deg on the R scale is TDC.

The 173/202 timing cover is stamped A. The longest mark is TDC and qualified with a 0 above it and there are five timing marks each being 2 degrees on the Advance side and one mark on the retard side.
 



#5 Flaming Skull 57

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Posted 18 November 2025 - 07:45 AM

Thank You. Makes sense now.



#6 Dr Terry

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Posted 18 November 2025 - 07:57 AM

The (notch on the) balancer pulley is another variable to bear in mind.

This isn't a problem unless you fit Blue balancers onto Red engines, but yes it can be an issue.

 

Dr Terry

 

Hi All

 

I have a 1971 LC Torana with a 173 engine. I have researched all the sites and am still not sure of the make up of the timing marks on the timing cover.

What I have found is the Long mark on a 173 is TDC, which is different from other size engines. Therefore, if I set the timing at 5 degree Before Top Dead Center then that would be before the long line. Before the long line there is only two notches. Therefore 2 and 4 degrees. Do I set the timing just before the timing block starts?

 

The other question is if the "R" on the markings is "Retard" why do you require 4 notches - 2,4,6,8 degrees retard when all timing is BTDC.

 

Cheers

John

As already mentioned, the tag with the long mark & the R symbol is off pre-HQ engines. The long mark is 5 degrees BTDC which was initial timing for all of the early Reds. The 2 degree retard marks are for retarding the timing for low octane fuel which was a common tuning adjustment in the 60s.

 

Dr Terry



#7 axistr

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Posted 18 November 2025 - 08:12 AM

I've always treated timing marks as a very rough indication only. I remember my TAFE teacher telling me I had to use a timing light and line up the marks for correct ignition timing and that was it. I argued the point saying they are not accurate due to manufacturing tolerances, movement in the harmonic balancer and rubber, timing chain stretching, worn gears, distributor advance weights, worn bushes and bearings, modified camshafts and the list goes on. My uncle was a real wizard on tuning engines and taught me how to tune engines by ear when I was 15. In many cases setting the timing by ear is more accurate than timing lights on early design engines (before late model EFI engines).

 

If you know what to listen for it's very easy, quicker and more accurate than any other method. With the engine at idle turn the distributor in the timing advance direction listening to the exhaust tailpipe at the same time. Generally, the engine will run a fraction smoother then a bit rougher as you continue to rotate the distributor. Then turn the distributor in the opposite direction slowly till you hear the exhaust note start to sound a bit hollow. Just advance and retard the timing a few times by rotating the distributor till you get the hang of the change in exhaust note. But what your listening for is a change to a slight hollow note (sweet spot). Lock the distributor at the point that the hollow note just starts to come in. If you keep turn the distributor further into retard (the hollow note) the engine will be too far retarded and will cause higher cylinder temperatures. No hollow note and the engine will have an advanced ignition timing and the engine may ping. Road test and check engine operation. Its rare that I need to do any further timing adjustment. However some exhaust systems can sound more hollow than other so some minor changes in timing may be needed.

 

Just for the record and after a lengthy Tafe class discussion our teacher decided they my method was inaccurate and would be inconsistent. I had a $15 bet with the teacher. We set five different vehicles timing by using timing lights then placing on the TAFE chassis dyno and recorded the torque and HP figures. I then set the same five vehicles timing by ear. Four out of five had increased torque and HP reading. I can't remember the readings but figures between 5 and 20 percent were achieved. The fifth car had no change.                    



#8 Dr Terry

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Posted 18 November 2025 - 08:37 AM

^^^^^ Totally agree, especially with engines that have done a few miles.

 

Dr Terry






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