hi all
i am thinkin of slottin in a chev gen III into my LH for an easy(?) power boost. can anyone please enlighten me as to what kind of work is involved besides the obvious (relocation of engine mounts). i understand that there is a decent slab of electrical work to be done but have no idea what is involved.
any help or ideas would be great
thanks
Aaron
Gen III conversion
Started by
_Toranabuild_
, Sep 28 2006 10:24 AM
24 replies to this topic
#2
_yelloterra_
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 02:31 PM
From what i been told make sure its a manual because its not easy, Its a big job. The computer for the genIII also controls the trans. Unless you put the trans in as well. then i dunno, doubt it would fit.
Aslong as you get a manual ECU i think its easy. Run old school T350 or something behind it.
Its not a professional comment as i have never done it, but it has come up between mates before and they are some of the issues that came up in conversation. Some one would do a wiring kit for sure.
Good luck if you get it in, had an edit commodore, that thing flew, would love to have that turn the key power in my Torry.
PS: You need a new sump, they are about 8-900 dollars. crazy- just remembered that, have a mate putting one in a HQ and couldnt be bothered re writing the message.
Aslong as you get a manual ECU i think its easy. Run old school T350 or something behind it.
Its not a professional comment as i have never done it, but it has come up between mates before and they are some of the issues that came up in conversation. Some one would do a wiring kit for sure.
Good luck if you get it in, had an edit commodore, that thing flew, would love to have that turn the key power in my Torry.
PS: You need a new sump, they are about 8-900 dollars. crazy- just remembered that, have a mate putting one in a HQ and couldnt be bothered re writing the message.
#3
_BoltZ_
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 06:58 PM
To avoid dramas with an ECU there are companies that sell complete LS1's with a carb and MSD ignition.. kind of taking a step backwards i know but tuned right and you will see the same power as an EFI one. You'll still need the proper sump, crossmember, possible firewall/tunnel mods, etc...
#4
_tj81_
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:46 PM
The biggest thing you will need is ...cash, and lots of it.
dont even consider it unless you want to spend 20K Plus
dont even consider it unless you want to spend 20K Plus
#5
lakeside
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:54 PM
why would it cost $20,000?The biggest thing you will need is ...cash, and lots of it.
dont even consider it unless you want to spend 20K Plus
#6
TerrA LX
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 12:13 AM
motor and box will be the most expensive part and they fit straight into XY falcons (aparrently) so how hard would it be to fit a clevland with injection.
Edited by ALX76, 29 September 2006 - 12:14 AM.
#7
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 01:49 AM
A Gen III has been slotted into an XY. Wasn't that in SM? I suppose it could cost $20K to slot one into an LH, but has anybody actually done the sums? As T700's bolt in without clearance problems, there wouldn't ( shouldn't ) need any trans tunnel mods. Likewise the X-member. If one could compare the X-members in a VT series I ( 304 V8 ) with a VT series II ( Gen III V8 ), then it would be faily easy to see what mods ( if any ) would need to be done. I'm not saying it would be a cheap and easy swap, but I'd like to hear from somebody who has at least pulled out a tape measure to make some comparisons.
#8
TerrA LX
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 01:51 AM
camero sump?
#9
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 01:58 AM
If somebody could get hold of a junked block and a bare T400 case, that would make it a lot easier ( and cheaper ) to dummy fit in the Torrie. Once the engine mounts are sorted, then a head would be needed to check for head and exhaust clearance. Just do it in stages and burn one bridge at a time.
#10
LS1LX
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 03:25 AM
Fits straight in, no cutting required, but its a very tight fit.
Bet on a minimum $10k to get it up and running, $20k to do it 100% properly.
Bet on a minimum $10k to get it up and running, $20k to do it 100% properly.
#11
_Toranabuild_
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 10:02 AM
LS1LH: where does the other 10 grand come in if there is bugger all bay mods to be done.
i heard that there needs to be some instrument cluster work to be done as the torana is from te age of bugger all electronics. i could be wrong but have no idea. its soundin more and more feasable though
i heard that there needs to be some instrument cluster work to be done as the torana is from te age of bugger all electronics. i could be wrong but have no idea. its soundin more and more feasable though
#12
gtrboyy
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 10:38 AM
10k would be if you did most of the work,20k would be easy if you got someone else to do it for you probably.Just when you think you have most of it done you would be amazed at the cost of all the little things when you add them all up,any kind of conversion really.
Not sure if it's true,I was told the suburbans a rear sump set up,maybe one of those sumps could be used or modified.
Not sure if it's true,I was told the suburbans a rear sump set up,maybe one of those sumps could be used or modified.
#13
Bart
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Posted 29 September 2006 - 08:19 PM
$600 EFI fuel pumps, low and high pressure, surge tank, new fuel line
$400 front ventilated HQ brakes
$1300 decent gear box
$700 extractors
$400 exhaust
$400 approx radiator
$700 BW diff or 9" $1200?
$300 tail shaft
$500 custom sump
Plus engine
It kinda adds up
^ is heading towards 10k and im sure im missing heaps
$400 front ventilated HQ brakes
$1300 decent gear box
$700 extractors
$400 exhaust
$400 approx radiator
$700 BW diff or 9" $1200?
$300 tail shaft
$500 custom sump
Plus engine
It kinda adds up
^ is heading towards 10k and im sure im missing heaps
#14
lakeside
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 01:57 AM
still need all the crap, even if you do a efi 304. The cheapest way is to buy a late model stat write-off and use evething you can. You can buy a smashed VT for under $5000.$600 EFI fuel pumps, low and high pressure, surge tank, new fuel line
$400 front ventilated HQ brakes
$1300 decent gear box
$700 extractors
$400 exhaust
$400 approx radiator
$700 BW diff or 9" $1200?
$300 tail shaft
$500 custom sump
Plus engine
It kinda adds up
^ is heading towards 10k and im sure im missing heaps
#15
TerrA LX
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 02:04 AM
its a hard call, the LS1 is still looking like 10K to 15K which ever way it goes so thats a lotta mulla to spend on a 308 IMO. VN heads, stroker crank and strong box.
#16
LS1LX
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 08:54 AM
Add another $200 on fittings alone for the fuel system.$600 EFI fuel pumps, low and high pressure, surge tank, new fuel line
$400 front ventilated HQ brakes
$1300 decent gear box
$700 extractors
$400 exhaust
$400 approx radiator
$700 BW diff or 9" $1200?
$300 tail shaft
$500 custom sump
Plus engine
It kinda adds up
^ is heading towards 10k and im sure im missing heaps
$1300 fro a decent gearbox? Where not talking aussie 4 speeds, a decent box to handle the power is at least $2000 on wards
My diff owes me $4000 too handle my combo.
Custom LS1 sump will set you back over $1000.
This where the $$ comes in with the LS1 anything you need fabbed up adds up, been there done that. Do it cheap it will last 1 week.
Where do you get an alloy rad for $400? Theres another $100 in hoses etc, all the little things people leave out, all makes that bill add up quickly
$1100 for a complete exhaust including extractors for LS1? You will spend more on extractors alone to get made.
#17
_yelloterra_
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 08:22 PM
Thats not bad though 20k.
Mate paid $13000 for a custom built stroker 355 for his HQ (complete brand new engine, no change over).
He only pulls 210kws at the wheels, and that wasnt even taking into account his fuel systems and spark systems.
For an extra 6-7k (if it cost that much, I think could be done cheaper, if you didnt pay people to do everything) you get a far superior ignition and engine management system with capabilities of tuning past 240rwks. If you go auto they can program and adjust your shift points and firmness. Save $$$ there on transmods.
Its worth the time and the money I think.
GenIII sumps apparently are expensive because they have oil galleries in the alloy casting. COME do a sump i think.
PS I would class the running gear separate to the build of the engine (other than the tail shaft). I wouldnt put the price of the diff and brakes into the equation.
Mate paid $13000 for a custom built stroker 355 for his HQ (complete brand new engine, no change over).
He only pulls 210kws at the wheels, and that wasnt even taking into account his fuel systems and spark systems.
For an extra 6-7k (if it cost that much, I think could be done cheaper, if you didnt pay people to do everything) you get a far superior ignition and engine management system with capabilities of tuning past 240rwks. If you go auto they can program and adjust your shift points and firmness. Save $$$ there on transmods.
Its worth the time and the money I think.
GenIII sumps apparently are expensive because they have oil galleries in the alloy casting. COME do a sump i think.
PS I would class the running gear separate to the build of the engine (other than the tail shaft). I wouldnt put the price of the diff and brakes into the equation.
Edited by yelloterra, 30 September 2006 - 08:31 PM.
#18
_lurkin308_
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Posted 01 October 2006 - 11:20 AM
13k for a stroker whats the guys name so i know not to go there i spent 4k with a new comverter and its a 308 with a 286 cam id want some money back
#19
_Toranabuild_
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Posted 03 October 2006 - 11:56 AM
the thought of a late model 308 had crossed my mind. the reason behind loking at a gen III was power with bugger all engine modification.
i have had quotes for around 6k for a sweet blue stroker to be built. honsetly after all this i am not sure anymore
what does everyone think. 355 blue stroker or stock gen III. i mean the stroker would be a hell of a lot easier to install not too mention cheaper but is engine wear and tear gonna be an issue in an engine that is so highly modified
i have had quotes for around 6k for a sweet blue stroker to be built. honsetly after all this i am not sure anymore
what does everyone think. 355 blue stroker or stock gen III. i mean the stroker would be a hell of a lot easier to install not too mention cheaper but is engine wear and tear gonna be an issue in an engine that is so highly modified
#20
TerrA LX
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Posted 03 October 2006 - 04:06 PM
not if its built, driven and maintained properly.
#21
Growla
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Posted 30 March 2007 - 09:14 PM
Any more on the sump that will fit. I'm starting the project soon. Just bought a rolled sv8 to do the conversion.
cheers
Mark
cheers
Mark
#22
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 30 March 2007 - 10:01 PM
There are two options.
Sump from Castle Auto Elec, I have been waiting since Oct 06 for mine.
http://www.castleaut...igen3lhlxuc.php
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120585a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120584a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120580a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120581a.jpg
Buy a Camaro sump and pickup for around $600 and modify it to suit Torana
http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au
This is a 2005 Camaro sump modified to suit a 68 Camaro. You would need to do something similar to this for the Torana.
https://cache.gmh-to.../CamaroSump.jpg
LS1LX modified a Camaro sump.
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=13315
Sump from Castle Auto Elec, I have been waiting since Oct 06 for mine.
http://www.castleaut...igen3lhlxuc.php
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120585a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120584a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120580a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120581a.jpg
Buy a Camaro sump and pickup for around $600 and modify it to suit Torana
http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au
This is a 2005 Camaro sump modified to suit a 68 Camaro. You would need to do something similar to this for the Torana.
https://cache.gmh-to.../CamaroSump.jpg
LS1LX modified a Camaro sump.
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=13315
#23
Growla
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Posted 01 April 2007 - 04:58 PM
hey i found this sump in america
http://carshop.carsh...id/81168/LS1PAN
front depth 44.5mm length at that depth to rear bowl 292mm
rear bowl depth 140mm? length 235mm
this looks like it may fit.
cheers
Mark
http://carshop.carsh...id/81168/LS1PAN
front depth 44.5mm length at that depth to rear bowl 292mm
rear bowl depth 140mm? length 235mm
this looks like it may fit.
cheers
Mark
#24
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Posted 01 April 2007 - 08:53 PM
Looks interesting. It winds up being AUS$462 plus import charges and shipping. Plus delays. Still could be a good option though.
#25
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 01 April 2007 - 09:43 PM
The CAE sump measurement's are.
At the front side bolt hole it is 40mm deep
90mm back it is 50mm deep
180mm back it is 60mm deep
190mm back it is 62mm deep
270mm back it is 70mm deep
290mm back it is 140mm deep
At the front side bolt hole it is 40mm deep
90mm back it is 50mm deep
180mm back it is 60mm deep
190mm back it is 62mm deep
270mm back it is 70mm deep
290mm back it is 140mm deep
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