338 replies to this topic

[Shiney005]

They have come up a treat. What were you using for your light source Axistr? And what size are the rims on your Clubbie? They fill the guards out nice.

 

Do you know if any of the non SLR digital cameras have the capacity to hold the "shutter" open for prolonged exposure?

[axistr]

Thanks' for the tips Sam, as I said I am only a armature photographer with not much idea. I did do a few outside a few weeks ago but to much moon light on the night. I only have a cheap Sony digital camera and its not an SLR like the car. The camera only has a maximum of 30 seconds shutter opening. The lighting used was a Narver hand held LED mechanics light. Your right to many reflective surfaces in the shed.

 

Grant 20" on the clubby.

[HDT166]

Just loved reading this!
May I ask what air con condenser you used?

[axistr]

G'day HDT166, the hatch a/c compressor is a denso originally from a 98-2001 Toyota hilux 4x4 diesel. On the SLR I used a Sanden compressor which I picked up from cool drive. Choose it from their parts book as it had a 6pk belt drive and four bolt up pattern which made it easy to adapt to my original vr commodore compressor mount with the power steering.

[HDT166]

G'day HDT166, the hatch a/c compressor is a denso originally from a 98-2001 Toyota hilux 4x4 diesel. On the SLR I used a Sanden compressor which I picked up from cool drive. Choose it from their parts book as it had a 6pk belt drive and four bolt up pattern which made it easy to adapt to my original vr commodore compressor mount with the power steering.

Thanks for the info , but I was after what condenser you used, unit in front of the radiator .

[axistr]

Sorry forgot to add that part, brain fade/old age/dementia. Both cars have Denso condensers and internal evaporators units from a Toyota Hilux LN106 model from memory.           

[HDT166]

Sorry forgot to add that part, brain fade/old age/dementia. Both cars have Denso condensers and internal evaporators units from a Toyota Hilux LN106 model from memory.           

Thanks heaps mate, love your work

[350mick]

What did you do to fit the gearbox, looks like you have not touched the tunnel? Mine sits way higher, did you lower the engine to get that angle?

Hi myss427
Have you got pictures of the floor modifications
That’s you did to fit the T56 Magnum
I’m having trouble with mine
Looks like I need to cut the floor

[myss427]

Hi myss427
Have you got pictures of the floor modifications
That’s you did to fit the T56 Magnum
I’m having trouble with mine
Looks like I need to cut the floor

 

I do, but on my home computer, I cut the floor out over the top of the rails from the firewall to the floor join seam behind the seats, removed it all. Then source a VL Commodore front floor trimmed it up to suit the same space, had to remove the existing Commodore brackets and chassis, but when welded in it is not noticeable except a huge tunnel. Gearbox angle is 3 degrees, same as depress, before tunnel it was 6!

[axistr]

It seams every time someone else drives my Torana they bugger up the park brake rachet assembly. I have had it out three times over the years and filed the rachet teeth, realigned the actuating rod and adjusted. I haven't had any problems with its operation when I use it, it's just other drivers, and I don't let just anyone drive it.

 

I took it for rego on Friday and when I got back in to drive home once again it was buggered. Cut a long story short I parked the Torana in front of my shed and went to push my go kart trailer a bit further back in the shed so the torrie would fit. I almost got to the trailer when I noticed the car heading very slowly towards me. I jump out of the way and grabbed the front o/s bumper conner and managed to slow it down a fraction but it hit the trailer coupling and took a decent amount of paint off. F=+K, and I've created another job for myself repairing and repaint the front bar. The cause, the parking brake didn't lock in tight and jumped a tooth. Its the first time I have ever put a scratch on either of my Toranas.

 

I have decided to look into doing a park brake update. I'm thinking an electric park brake system might be more fool proof. Before I run out and grab a VE/VF electric park brake assemble for evaluation from the wreckers, has anyone had any experience with them, or is there a better alternative at a reasonable price ? and does anyone have one sitting in their back yard for some basic measurements.

 

Cheers Lenny.

 

 

 SLR front bumper..jpg   104.27K   0 downloads

  

[SmacT]

Ah bugger. Could have been worse I guess! The stock park brake is a pita, I really contemplated fitting a UC handbrake when building mine for that reason, but didn't want to have to use a UC console.

Be keen to see what you do here, though electric park brakes have their annoyances, too. Be nice to have something that makes hill starts easier, that's for sure!

[Shiney005]

I personally don't like that I can't "feel" when an electronic park brake is working (or not). You always know when a manual one is getting due for adjustment.  Have you had the same trouble in the hatch? I have never had an issue with any of mine.

[axistr]

I personally don't like that I can't "feel" when an electronic park brake is working (or not). You always know when a manual one is getting due for adjustment.  Have you had the same trouble in the hatch? I have never had an issue with any of mine.

 

I've been out of the loop a bit since I sold my workshop Laurie, however most of the vehicles I worked on with electric park brakes triggered a message on the dash display that the system required servicing. Generally, this message was triggered due to requiring adjustment. I have been looking into aftermarket kits, but I don't think these kits offer the same amount of sophistication. E-stopp brand kits are around $1,200 and look to be an easy adaption for a Torana. Still doing my homework. My hatch hasn't given me any problems over the past twenty years but no one other than my son and I drive it. The SLR only has 300hp and sometimes my sone allows some friends to drive it. If I don't give them or forget to give the driver a rundown on how to work the park brake, they generally stuff it up. The younger generation haven't seen park brakes like the ones on Toranas. They start off by pushing the pedal down so bloody hard trying to get it release automatically, then pull the release handle which is so loaded up that they bend the mechanism trying to get the park brake to release. Most people don't seam to comprehend that turning the release handle first makes the whole process much easier. The locking teeth have been damaged three times now to the point that I don't think I will be able to successfully repair it this time round.      

[axistr]

After more research I finally made my choice. The cable type electric park brakes systems were a much cheaper option, however mounting options were limited and the angles I needed to pull the cables from were not ideal. I could have sourced a cheap cable pull motor assemble off eBay listed for Hyundais and alike but needed an ECM to control the process adding to the total expense. Information on wiring and packaging wasn't available, and I could see myself spending months trying to sort it all out.

 

I already have rear disc brake brakes (VS commodore). The Wilwood kit I purchased were for 10mm rear disc rotors. Even on the Summit racing and Wilwood web sites they didn't  list any kits for 10mm rotors. However, on the Rocket Industries site they do. Did the drive yesterday to Rocket and sussed out the kit and purchased.

The kit has a caliper for each side, ECM, harness and dash switch. The calipers are electric park brake only and the original hydraulic rear calipers are retained in the original position. I will have to make the brackets to mount the Wilwood calipers but don't expect this will be reasonably easy process.

 

Don't know why my photos get turned 90 degrees when posting ? any ideas from the more tech savvy experts on here. 

 

 

 park brake.jpg   275.84K   1 downloads

 

 

 park brake.jpg   275.84K   1 downloads