448 replies to this topic

[Zook]

He's moving from Melbourne to Queensland.

Fair call, I wouldn't go to Qld either, it stinks.

[Ice]

Fair call, I wouldn't go to Qld either, it stinks.

Wouldn’t say to much living in Melbourne is like living in Mumbai 

Thats why lots of people leaving you’re state 

[hawk]

Thanks Potta, good to see you're still around. It was the right move at the time to sell the old one.

Had to grow up a lot and learn to not crack the shits with the car every time something went wrong.

Pretty optimistic about this one. It's coming along pretty well. Still got a lot to do and a lot to spend.

[rodomo]

Good on you given what you've been through.

[claysummers]

Bellhousing, clutch, yolk, tail shaft are all the same hawk. Unbolt, bolt up, apart from linkages. Hydraulic clutch is the way to go if you have the rat trap belhousing. PCV valve to rocker cover should exit at the base of the carb.


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[Rockoz]

I went for a hydraulic throw out bearing on my truck conversion.

Much simpler, but pricey.

Was around the 800 buck mark.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Zook]

Thats why lots of people leaving you’re state 

I don't think they are but I wish they would, even though I live in a Territory.

[hawk]

Thanks guys, got it to idle today, replaced the vacuum lines, hooked up the radiator and replaced the leads.

Ordered the correct thermostat housing.

Will replace the points and plugs sometime soon.
Fuel pump looks like its leaking a bit so will need seals.

Going to put it all back together minus gearbox. I'll put the box in from underneath when I get a 4 speed.

Missing a lot of the pollution gear being a HQ motor so will have to source all that.
Accelerator cable bracket is wrong too.



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I'll have a look at what's available in the way of hydro conversions. The dellow one is $650

[yel327]

If you want the pollution gear you have the wrong manifolds, carby and cylinder head for a start. Hopefully you can dress it as an ADR27A engine and get it through.

[hawk]

I'm hoping to dummy it up as best I can to get it through like I did with my old one.

People get aftermarket manifolds through with holleys so not sure how it all works.

If funds allow I'll be looking at a redline manifold and 350 holley. Extractors are a no brainer too.

I'll get it all together first with what I have and see what I can do from there.

[yel327]

I remember when I put a pre ADR27A red 6 into a 1980 WB. I did use a red pollution carb and intake on it and a HEI dizzy, but separated the exhaust manifolds and used extractors. I fitted the pollution red engine harness. Made up a little angle bracket that went under a rocker cover bolt to put the block temperature sensor in (and shorted the switch at the plug). The Aussie 4spd was an early one without the top gear switch, so I just grounded that wire to the box. With the right 3 port canister and the right carby everything hooked up and looked right. Passed rego inspection easily. It was a VL prefix red block too, all painted blue.

[hawk]

I think the only thing I'm missing is the vacuum thing at thats near the thermostat housing.

in this pic red and black went to the auto, green is block temp? Orange was kickdown solenoid on the carb.



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yellow to distributor and blue to oil pressure?

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front plug ( right of pic) to vacuum thing and the other one I'm guessing is for tachometer if the cluster had one.

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pics of old motors setup for reference
you can see the vacuum thing next to the thermostat housing. what is it?


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[hawk]

This book only has pollution schematics up to LX.
I'll try my luck with the manual setup as below.

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[yel327]

In the second picture from the bottom, the two wire plug near to the 2nd plug goes to the block temperature switch that screws into a red pollution head at that location. It goes in series with another temperature switch into water (will double check this one for you, might be the one near the temp sender in the top photo) and then another switch on the transmission that tells you when the transmission is in top gear. The three in series switch the 0V side of that vacuum switch. The vacuum switch switches between ported and vacuum advance for the dizzy. The idea is the dizzy doesn’t get full vacuum advance until the water is warm, the block is warm and the car is in top gear.
On top of this there is another temperature switch for vacuum in the top of the thermostat housing. It from memory operates the EGR valve in the intake manifold, and it might also come into play with dizzy vacuum. I’d have to dig the diagrams out for you as I’m just going from memory.
The ADR27A air cleaner also has a thermal switch in it that has a manifold vacuum source connected to it, then it goes to the hot air flap in the intake of the air cleaner. There is a flexible duct from underneath the air cleaner intake down to be a stove on the exhaust manifold, when you buy extractors for these they have a pipe welded to them for this.

I can dig you out images and diagrams if you need to go hard on it to pass rego.

[hawk]

Thanks heaps for the information Yel.

So its a vacuum switch I need.
the old motor I'm pretty sure didn't have the block temp hooked up either.

hard to tell from the pic.

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[claysummers]

As Per the last photo the pink wire appears to be throttle nudger circuit. Increase revs under switched condition and or anti diesel on shut down.


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[hawk]

Well, I found a guy locally who has most of what I need. correct carby, manifold, vacuum switch and potentially the vacuum fitting for the thermostat housing.

He said the manifold will need a plate made for the bottom of it if I run extractors. Is this correct? and if so does anyone make them?

He also has a floor shifter for a 3 speed box. Should I just use the 3 speed I have instead of sourcing a 4 speed?

[yel327]

I don’t think you need the plate on the intake manifold, just ensure the EGR valve doesn’t open and suck air into the intake.

I wouldn’t run the 3spd, means ugly holes in the floor and no reverse switch. Aussie 4spds are cheap at swap meets but they are a lucky dip condition wise. I’d just run a Trimatic. UC had LH shift T-bars, so a Commodore one will do.

[hawk]

Why do you need holes cut in the floor for a 3 speed? thought they bolted up the same as a 4 speed.

I'd really prefer to go manual.

So block the vacuum port that opens the valve and I should be ok?

[yel327]

The 3spd aftermarket shifters sit in a very different spot to the Aussie 4spd shifter. I guess you could very creative and fit a 4spd extension housing to a 3spd and use a 4spd shifter to operate the 3spd. GMH did this with CF Bedford but the shifter was remote mounted. You might also be able to gat an Aussie 4spd shifter Mount out of an early LH 4cyl. These had an Aussie 4spd but it was moved forward to meet the 4cyl Opel. They had a little cradle that screwed into the standard 4spd/T-bar floor hole and it held the shifter in place rather than it be bolted to the 4spd.

Yes, that is what I did with my WB.

[hawk]

Thanks again Yel, saved me a bit of money there. I'll source a 4 speed. I'm in contact with someone about one at the moment.

Sourced most of the bits I need for the motor now.
Polution carb
polution manifold
vacuum switch
thermostat housing with drivers side heater barb
thermostat top with vacuum stuff.

The manifold is at the engine shop getting cleaned up as it was filthy.
Both the thermostat housing pieces are Kilkenny castings.

I'm hoping to replace a lot of hoses and get the thermostat housing on tomorrow.

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Pulled the carb off and the thermostat housing. Found out why I had so much trouble getting it to run, the carb had no gasket and deffinitly wasn't sealed 100%.

Continued assembly in other areas. The washer bottle and overflow tank are in their new locations. just need to extend some wiring and run the hoses.

The front bar is a mess and will be getting replaced once everything else is sorted out.



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Another small yet important task was replacing the door locks. Drivers side wouldn't unlock with the keys I have and the passengers side was a pain too.

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Anyway, here is a list of what's still needed other than the above.

4 speed gearbox and shifter.
new clutch.
new throwout bearing.
hydraulic clutch kit.
extractors.
carb gasket.
polution style air cleaner.
side plate and rocker cover gaskets.
thermostat... what temperature do I need?
Front calliper rebuild.
front pads.
rewire in some areas.
Full exhaust system.
some globes and seat belt bolts.
new points.
manual interior stuff ( boot and console )

Going to focus on the motor for now and go from there.

[claysummers]

Replace the spigot bush while you are at it hawk. Should come with clutch kit, as does thrust or throw out bearing.


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[yel327]

See if you can find the little block temperature switch that goes near the dizzy. You’ll find them in any red pollution head or at the back of the driver’s side head on a pollution V8. Just need a little metal angle bracket under a rocker cover bolt and bridge a wire across the terminals with solder.
The later manual box also has a switch on the side cover if you want to go that far.

[hawk]

Clay, what's the best way to remove the old one?

Yel, is this the place where it goes? looks like I have the spot for one in the head.

As for the gearbox, I'll have a look when I buy one.

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Got the thermostat housing painted and fitted today and tidied up the bay a bit. replaced the washer hose and the two carbon canister hoses.

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[yel327]

That’s the spot, and if it’s the right thread will do. It is normally cast as part of the head but if it fits use it!

If the gearbox you get is pre ADR27A just ground the wire.