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hawks uc sunbird

Started by hawk , Jan 31 2010 11:12 AM

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954 replies to this topic

#176 _sting_

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 08:47 PM

well done on the p's, now you go pick up chicks without dad hanging aroud like a bad smell :3gears:

. Keep the good work up.

cheers sting

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#177 hawk

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Name:steve
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Posted 07 September 2011 - 08:31 PM

Picked up a 3.36 ratio diff off chopper and a few panels so over the.next week ill put the diff in but i need to put my current drums.and.handbreak cables on the new diff any advice on doing the breaks.would be appreciated and.ill try and get some.pics soon

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#178 hawk

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:03 PM

the new diff is in now to tighten everything up and bleed the brakes

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#179 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:46 PM

It wasn't that hard to swap over then? Best way to learn.

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#180 hawk

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:54 PM

hasnt been too hard so far except for doing it all myself there a bugger to lift in without anything to help

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#181 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 10:45 AM

I know the feeling. Especially if you can't get the car very far off the ground.

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#182 hawk

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 09:02 PM

New diff is up and running brakes bled and new oil... the speedo is out by 10+ kph how do i fix that

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#183 _UCV80_

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 09:27 PM

You can buy marine grade vinyl on eBay, got some the other week. I went to spotlight and seen similar vinyl half the price (probly not the same quality but still good and cheaper!) As above Spray can adhesive is the easiest way. Hook the led's up to the brake lights :spoton:

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#184 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 11:10 AM

Tell me what size the rear tyres are and I will tell you what speedo gear to install in the back of the gearbox.

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#185 hawk

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 12:33 PM

the tyres are 205r13's

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#186 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 03:53 PM

205/60R13 or 205/65R13?

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#187 hawk

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 05:42 PM

205/60r13

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#188 _L32M20_

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 08:12 PM

Matey, this is an LX, and is the plenum chamber, but with the top section unpicked.
Gives you an idea of what is going on down there. Stupid bloody design not being able
to get to it eh!?

This is LX5008's SS, and he is using a UC donor panel in there.

I've just discovered a lot of rust on my driver's side, and will do the unpicking job,
even though it wasnt really in my initial plans. But its the ONLY way to ensure no water leakage.

The 'coconut hair' hides all......

If you dont want to do all that, may I suggest you remove the lot. The whole dash. Its an easy job.
You wont lose much blood, just a bit when unclipping the speedo. Oh and its great when you're all contorted
and trying not to cut yourself on razor sharp rust, and a huntsman runs out at you up your arm. Aaaaaaahhhhh!!!!!

mate thats pissfunny ........................thanks for the laugh.........love agood huntsman gag

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#189 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 09:41 PM

New diff is up and running brakes bled and new oil... the speedo is out by 10+ kph how do i fix that

You need a yellow 24 tooth gear.

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#190 hawk

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 09:48 PM

Wheee can i get one... do you.have one there for.sale ?

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#191 rodomo

To advertise here, call 13TORANA

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Name:R - O - B Dammit!
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Posted 10 September 2011 - 09:56 PM

Part No. SG 1011
http://www.rarespare...?product=SG1011

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#192 hawk

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 09:02 PM

finally have some pics of recent work done and have started collecting panels for a respray which will hopefully happen over summer, so far i have
bought drivers front guard and front door, scuttle panel, front apron and boot lid. ill be picking up the other 3 doors this weekend. id also like to thank
chopper for all the panels and the diff

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#193 hawk

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:48 PM

today i started pulling down a 202 i got off chopper and was surprised to find acl duralite 2 pistons
are these good pistons ?

over the next few months im hoping to build a new motor for the car plans are
red 202 block
blue 202 crank or blue 173 crank if this is possible
starfire rods
the acl pistons
light port work on the head
and im unsure on which cam, manifold and carby to use. im hoping to build this as cheaply as possible as
i dont have the most money and i should save alot of money as the block doesnt have a lip and shouldnt
need machining

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#194 mr5000

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 07:02 AM

do youself a favour once you got the block stripped down go and see ian at lilydale engine reconditioning behind the high school next to brock get him to put it in the tank and check out the bores for you ian is really well priced wont cost you much

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#195 hawk

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 12:29 PM

Thanks will do just a few questions
the red 202 had some fairly deep scores in the 3rd cyl does that mean its needs to be boted out and i cant use the acl pistons?
how do i find out what oversize the pistons are ?
If i was to use a blue 202 block i have (bores are good) how do i tell if the bores are stock, would i be able to use a blue 173 crank i have in the 202 and would i be able to use a 9 port head i know 12 ports cant be used on red motors so im guessing same the other way around?

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#196 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 07:02 PM

That Blue 202 was stock bore.

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#197 hawk

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 08:49 PM

thanks and do you know what oversize the red 202 was and if a blue 173 crank will fit the 202?

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#198 greens nice

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 08:51 PM

assuming the red 202 is neoprene rear main, the blue crank will need machining to suit the neo seal as all blue's are rope rear main
the heads can be swapped, just a few holes in the deck to drill. lay a head gasket over the deck and you will see what i mean

Edited by greens nice, 05 October 2011 - 08:53 PM.

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#199 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 09:07 AM

The blue 173 crank and rods will be fine in the Blue 202. Which is exactly why i picked up the 173 in the first place. As for the Red 202, I never had the head off. You should be able to tell by the pistons. If it has 020 stamped on the top, they are +0.020". Just post whatever is on top of them and somebody should be able to work it out. So in theory, just bore out the Blue 202 to suit the Red 202 pistons and get a new set of rings. provided the pistons are still re-useable.