1102 replies to this topic

[gtrboyy]

Another quickie job clean speedo cable,pop her into large hole in auto on drivers side..there will be small tab & bolt that holds it in.

 

Other one grab your cast iron headers,give flange side quick flat file...to check they're not warped & stops tick tick exhaust leak sound lol

[Bigfella237]

Don't worry about the whole "runners" thing, EunUCh was just talking about the parts of the manifold that 'run' from the carby to each of the cylinders, number 1 runner feeds number 1 cylinder and so on.

 

Bloody hell... "PURGE" is the name I've been trying to think of... duh

 

Yeah I know the later model charcoal canisters were 'controlled' so to speak, they had a fourth (smaller) vacuum fitting that opened and closed the "PURGE" port, that is what one of those thermo-valve things in the front of the manifold was used for, but I reckon it will be alright connected to straight vacuum?

 

It will be easy to tell once the engine is running anyway, just crimp the hose and see if makes any difference?

[gtrboyy]

Yep red gear on end lol

 

While there look inside hole find out what colour plastic gear is inside..will work out gear combo so speedo is correct.

 

Personally on stock 253 I'd use those cast headers & cobble up own exhaust from scraps to make it run....spend the $500 elsewhere for now.

Edited by gtrboyy, 02 March 2017 - 08:38 PM.

[gtrboyy]

Cam swap is bit more involved than that but not hardest job to do,problem is these need lot more compression to make most of mods of even basic mods.

 

TBH once you've got that 253 tuned & running as best you can you'll instantly want a 308 or efi 5l conversion...engine you got mow is great to learn on & register it with,partly why keep saying 'cheap or freebie parts only'

Edited by gtrboyy, 02 March 2017 - 09:01 PM.

[Bigfella237]

quick question..

down the track, can i just buy a lumpy cam,

..and they just slide in/out, without dismantling engine? (just remove radiator and grill etc)

 

Not really, you have to change the cam and all 16 hydraulic lifters as a set (and you'd be silly not to do the timing chain while you're at it).

 

So you would need to remove the rocker covers, all the rockers and pushrods, the inlet manifold, the lifters, the radiator, water pump, harmonic balancer and timing cover.

 

Technically you're suppose to remove the sump before the timing cover but it can be done with the sump in place... it's a prick of a job but it can be done.

Edited by Bigfella237, 02 March 2017 - 08:59 PM.

[Bigfella237]

so you are not talking about the thermo port vacuums?

what's a straight vacuum andrew?

 

Yes, when I say straight vacuum, I mean connected directly to the manifold.

 

Those thermo switch things don't have vacuum by themselves, it's similar to a typical electrical switch, you have to supply vacuum to the switch, and it then allows vacuum to one of the other ports depending on the temperature of the coolant.

 

It's hardly worth worrying about now but in the later models, the vacuum switch stopped the petrol fumes being sucked into the engine from the charcoal canister until the engine had warmed up, again it was more of an emissions thing than anything else, they needed higher exhaust temperatures to burn off all the naughty ozone gobbling, polar bear melting gases.

[Bigfella237]

Hell yeah, you gotta have some oral fun every now and then!

 

Oh sorry, you said aural... yeah okay, that too!

[EunUCh]

Just wait till we get to the EGR set up with its thermo. timing thingy control

Yeah , block off #4 in your picture.

Frok off all the shit that is not needed to make an engine run without  a minimum of fuss and pollution

 

edit, this will include running a second rocker cover with some sort of "vent" that breaths through the base of the air filter and is connected to PCV as a "draw through" system to consume fumes from crankcase.

Edited by EunUCh, 02 March 2017 - 09:59 PM.

[koalasprint]

Been watching this thread for a while Mat. I hope you're enjoying the process, I know you are learning heaps, as I have done also. Keep going with the budget build to get it running however you can. Rego will be easier with minimal deviation from stock.

After it is running you can decide what you want to change. A lot of upgrades can be done while the car is still on the road. EG Motor and drive line. Save up, build up the new combination and then swap them over. The knowledge and experience you gain now will be invaluable. Well done so far!

[Bigfella237]

This car still gets my vote for best rear wheel arch / rear door cut (for a sedan) too!

 

I bet that seems like a thousand years ago now Mat?

 

 

 

 

Edited by Bigfella237, 03 March 2017 - 07:56 AM.

[Bigfella237]

What's with the "Reducing Bush"?

 

Surely that's not needed for your #4 vacuum fitting (the one up on top of the manifold)?

[Bigfella237]

That's what I was saying before about those thermo-valve things not having vacuum.

 

Those three larger bungs that screw into the front of the manifold from the front (including the temperature sensor) go into the coolant passage, if you were to use that reducer in one of those it would pump coolant into the charcoal canister... which would not be good!

 

You should only need the ¼" barb fitting to replace your #4 fitting, the one that screws into the top of the manifold.